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Lisbon: Neglected Gem Of The Best European Cities

By Mitchell Jones


Out on the fringes of Europe, nearly as far as you can go southwest and still be in Europe - without falling off into the Atlantic - Lisbon is often overlooked among those who presume to rank the best European cities. Yes, it lacks the iconic landmarks; its cuisine and wine are often considered second fiddle; and it just doesn't have that cool pizzazz factor, like a Paris, Rome or Berlin.

Thank goodness! I've been going to Lisbon since the 70s and one of the most enduringly consistent and attractive features of the place is how amazingly few tourists there are. The almost perfect climate is pretty great, too.

It has among the lowest crime rates of any of the best European cities. Plus, it is a true boon for the inveterate stroller, despite all the winding hills, with their sudden, stunning vistas that smack you rounding all kinds of bends.

The food may not be as famous as Greek, Italian or French, but it is delicious. And if you love sea food you'll be in heaven. And don't underestimate the wine. For some reason the standard exported fare isn't so great. The wine in Portugal, though, is a delight. The coffee is fantastic, too. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!

Lisbon provides all that classic European cultural stuff we've come to expect: it has cathedrals, museums, galleries, regal town squares and impressive architecture. And, if you get a hankering for the beach, which other great European city offers anything like the Costa da Caparica? Just a short trip south of town brings you to its 19 ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches. There is easy access to them all, along a cute little railway that travels their length, dropping you off at which ever beach you'd like. (Try that in Paris.)

Lisbon is a wonderful place to visit. However, I would particularly recommend it to those considering longer stays. If you have the option of a professional sabbatical, a longer vacation that allows you to stay put and learn the rhythms of a place, the ex-pat life, or if you want to write your great novel and need an inspirational getaway, you can't beat Lisbon.

Compared to the rest of Europe it is - as it has been since I started going - quite a bit less expensive. It is more expensive than it was back in the 70s, but in equivalent dollars not as much more as you might think.

Should you have the wisdom to take my advice and consider an extended sojourn in Lisbon it will be helpful to be familiar with the neighborhoods. You do after all want to choose the one that will provide you the best experience, in tune with your own personal needs and moods. Below, check out some of my favorite ones.

Alfama is the legacy of the original fishing village out of which Lisbon grew. It continues to maintain that village sensibility. With its charming, winding medieval streets, the castle always up behind you and the great views over the water, the place oozes character. A lot of the housing stock is rundown, but there are more and more nice reno jobs appearing; you'll get them for a far better price in Alfama.

If you're a partier and or a general purpose bohemian, Bairro Alto is likely the spot for you. It's packed full of characters with character, loads of popular restaurants, wine bars, dance clubs and all manner of night life. It's an exciting place to be and an exciting place to live, if it's your speed. If though you need quiet to sleep, it may not be the right choice. If you like the vibe of the place, though, you might try the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods down the hill a ways: the same feel, but less hectic.

A bit further north and away from the action, but that much more peaceful as a result, is the Principe Real neighborhood. Its reputation long informed by the prevalence of antique shops and gay bars, Principe Real has gone through a major transformation in recent years as large numbers of hip, young professionals have moved in. This has given an area that was already very pleasant a lot more diversity and cache. The rental prices are on the higher side, but if you enjoy getting away from the urban hubbub, while still being conveniently central to things, it is a price worth paying to enjoy the neighborhood's lush gardens and charming mansions.

Also recommended for those who don't mind paying a little more in rent for a little peace and charm is the lovely Santos district. Its riverside location provides it with oodles of cache. The artsy types might also like to know that Santos has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. It is though a relatively discreet notoriety and won't intrude much upon your enjoyment of this quaint residential area with its high quality housing.

So, whatever your preferences, the wild or the sedate, there are some options to suit your taste. Rest assured, whatever your preference, Lisbon has it. So, if you have the chance, don't miss your chance to experience what remains among the most affordable treasures among the best European cities.




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